Mount Garibaldi

Service Description

Climbing the Northeast (NE) Face of Mount Garibaldi is a challenging and rewarding mountaineering endeavor that requires technical skills, proper equipment, and physical endurance. Climb ice and snow to 45 degrees and scramble the final slopes to the dramatic summit, overlooking the caldera and Howe Sound. Approach and Access 1. Trailhead to Garibaldi Lake: o Starting Point: The journey begins at the Brohm Lake FSR, near Squamish, BC. o Hike to ridge above sharkfin to warren glacier Bivy: This involves a 9-kilometer (5.6 miles) hike with an elevation gain of about 820 meters (2,690 feet). The trail is well-maintained and takes approximately 3-4 hours. 2. Base Camp below Mt. Garibaldi o Setting Up Camp: Establish base camp o Preparation: Spend time acclimatizing and preparing gear for the climb. The Climb 1. Early Start: o Wake Up Early: Start before dawn to maximize daylight and avoid afternoon weather changes. o Gear Check: Ensure all necessary gear is packed and ready (crampons, ice axes, ropes, harnesses, etc.). 2. Approach to the NE Face: o Hiking and Glacier Travel: Begin by navigating through forested areas and open meadows before reaching the glacier. o Rope Up for Glacier Travel: Rope up for safety as you traverse the glacier, being mindful of crevasses. 3. Climbing the NE Face: o Steep Snow and Ice Slopes: The NE Face involves ascending steep snow and ice slopes. Use crampons and ice axes for secure footing and climbing. o Technical Ice Climbing: There may be sections that require technical ice climbing skills. Placement of ice screws for protection is crucial. o Rock and Mixed Climbing: The route can include mixed climbing sections with both rock and ice. Be prepared for rock scrambling and use of climbing techniques. o Exposure and Navigation: The NE Face is exposed, requiring careful navigation and route finding. Climbers should be comfortable with exposure and confident in their climbing abilities. 4. Summit Push: o Final Ascent: The final push to the summit involves steep and exposed sections. Maintain focus and use appropriate techniques to ensure safety. o Reaching the Summit: Upon reaching the summit, take time to enjoy the panoramic views and celebrate the achievement. 5. Descent: o Careful Navigation: The descent follows the same route or an alternative route, depending on conditions. Careful navigation and rope management are essential to avoid accidents. o Return after descending the technical sections.